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Home / Hot Stuff / I think Tudor’s latest watch might be one of the most underrated watch launches this year

I think Tudor’s latest watch might be one of the most underrated watch launches this year

The Tudor Pelagos FDX Black pays tribute to decades of Tudor watches on the wrists of US Navy divers

Last week Tudor announced a new Pelagos FXD. It pays tribute to the brand’s historic work with the US Navy divers, and, like the Pelagos FXD Marine National, comes with a number of adaptations that make it ready for action.

Now, yes, on the face of it, this new model is just a black version of the Pelagos FXD MN, complete with fixed strap bars, a titanium case, a high-performance Manufacture Calibre and a unidirectional elapsed-time rotating bezel. Tudor has branded it the ultimate modern “Milsub” and I have to agree.

Reading comments online though, it seems that this launch disappointed a few people. The main reason is that it’s not a re-launched Tudor Submariner model. Realistically, I don’t think that’s ever going to happen and think what Tudor is now doing (modern interpretations rather than carbon copies) is much more interesting.

Close up image of the Pelagos FXD black dial

The new Pelagos FXD pays tribute to Tudor’s historic diving watches, which were being tested inside the US Navy as early as the mid-1950s. In 1958 they were officially adopted by the Navy and purchased for the purpose of issuing them to divers operating in various units.

This black Pelagos FXD model is the spiritual successor to those watches – modern, high-performance and robust.

Take one look at the FXD and you’ll instantly recognise this is a little more special than regular Pelagos. The clear giveaway is the robust strap bars fixed to the case (which is also where the model gets its name fixed). These are designed to be much stronger than traditional spring bars.

The 42mm satin-brushed titanium case is machined from a single block of titanium and features a unidirectional rotatable bezel (also in titanium).

The ceramic insert on the bezel had a 60-minute graduation filled with grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova, and the matt black dial also has lashings of Super-LumiNova.

Tudor Pelagos FXD in Black on a white background

This understated matt black colourway is the main reason I prefer it over the blue of the FXD MN. It looks much more serious and stealthy. It’s ready for business. You can imagine a real Navy diver wearing it, even when it’s on my skinny, delicate wrist.

Inside is the Manufacture Calibre MT5602. It’s the typical Tudor affair – certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) with a hairspring in silicon and a 70-hour power reserve.

The watch comes on a one-piece fabric strap with a self-gripping fastening system in forest green, but also comes with an additional rubber strap with an embossed fabric motif (which I preferred).

Of course, this model is made for NATO lovers. I challenge you to find a 22mm NATO strap that it doesn’t suit.

The final point that I love about the Tudor Pelagos FXD is the price. The watch is available now and retails at $4150 / £3490, which I think is fantastic value for such a modern, durable watch with military kudos to boot.

Now check out the best smartwatches.

Profile image of Spencer Hart Spencer Hart Buying Guide Editor


As Buying Guide Editor, Spencer is responsible for all e-commerce content on Stuff, overseeing buying guides as well as covering deals and new product launches. Spencer has been writing about consumer tech for over eight years. He has worked on some of the biggest publications in the UK, where he covered everything from the emergence of smartwatches to the arrival of self-driving cars. During this time, Spencer has become a seasoned traveller, racking up air miles while travelling around the world reviewing cars, attending product launches, and covering every trade show known to man, from Baselworld and Geneva Motor Show to CES and MWC. While tech remains one of his biggest passions, Spencer also enjoys getting hands-on with the latest luxury watches, trying out new grooming kit, and road-testing all kinds of vehicles, from electric scooters to supercars.

Areas of expertise

Watches, travel, grooming, transport, tech