5 ultimate James Bond watches that shaped 007’s iconic look on screen
From Rolex to Omega, we countdown the five watches that have graced Bond's wrist and become icons of style, precision, and espionage
Watches are as big a part of the James Bond universe as 007’s cars, weapons and one-liners. Ever since his name leapt from Ian Flemming’s typewriter, thought has gone into what Bond straps to his wrist – and, latterly, Q-Branch made sure his watches detonated explosives and printed out secret messages, too.
But which is best? This is also akin to ranking Bond’s best cars (or the best Bond phones), so naturally everyone has their own opinion. We could fill this list exclusively with Omegas from the Daniel Craig era, or fawn over the weirder watches from the Q-branch archives. Instead we’ve gone somewhere down the middle, embracing a mix of Bond’s eclectic and timeless horological tastes.
Rolex Submariner 6538 ‘Big Crown’ (Dr No, 1962)
For his first outing on the big screen, James Bond wore a Rolex Submariner, reference 6538 and known as the ‘Big Crown’. It’s a fairly typical dive watch, with a black dial and matching bezel with a red triangle at the 12 o’clock position – and no gadgets from Q-branch. Those came later.
Made of tough stainless steel and water resistant to 200 metres, it’s the perfect watch for 007 – except, for reasons unknown, Bond pairs it with a leather strap, then goes swimming. We wouldn’t recommend that, unless you too can easily return it to Q for a replacement. Perhaps still with the stainless steel bracelet next time, Bond.
Hamilton Pulsar P2 2900 (Live and Let Die, 1973)
We could dwell on Bond’s various Rolexes before jumping to Omega, but let’s instead take a delightfully digital detour via the Hamilton Pulsar P2 2900. This LED digital watch starred on Bond’s wrist in Live and Let Die, where it likely felt like a cutting-edge piece of spy kit.
Twice during the film, we’re treated to a close-up shot of Roger Moore demonstrating how the time only appears with the press of a button, which illuminates the LED screen. Unlike later digital watches, the Pulsa P2 was a simple timepiece, showing only the hours and minutes, with no date, stop watch or other complication.
Hamilton has twice revived the P2, first with the larger Pulsomatic in 2010 (unusually in itself for being a LCD watch with an automatic movement), then with the near-identical PSR, which arrived in 2020 and is still available now.
Seiko 0674 5009 Quartz LC (The Spy Who Loved Me, 1977)
As much as we love Bond’s contemporary Omegas, you can’t go wrong with a bit of cheesy tech from Roger Moore-era 007. A highlight for us is the Seiko 0674 5009 Quartz LC from 1977’s The Spy Who Loved Me.
Worn throughout the film, the Seiko is a digital watch typical of the era, but with some killer Q upgrades. Most notably is how Bond receives a message from MI5 headquarters, embossed onto plastic tape seemingly printed by the watch itself. “007 to report HQ,” the message read as it appeared from the top of the Seiko’s case.
Did no one think about displaying a message on the digital screen instead? No, this is 1970’s Bond and the more implausible the gadgets are, the better.
Omega Seamaster 300M Quartz (Goldeneye, 1995)
Now let’s leap into the Omega era, starting with James Bond’s first Seamaster. Unusually, the exact model of Seamaster worn by Bond (and 006, played by Sean Bean) is a battery-powered Quartz and not a mechanical automatic.
Making up for that are of course the gadgets. Bond’s Omega is equipped with a laser, embedded in the red lume pip on the bezel and capable of burning through the steel floor of an armoured train. The Omega’s helium escape value also comes into play, and is repurposed as a button for remotely detonating a bomb.
We’re well into Bond’s brand-sponsored era by now, and the Omega is treated to a few lingering close-ups of the watch throughout the film.
Omega Seamaster 300 007 Edition 210.90 (No Time To Die, 2021)
Lastly, the most recent James Bond watch is also one of our favourites. Starring in Daniel Craig’s final outing, No Time To Die, this Seamaster Diver 300M is a 42 mm titanium variant, on a titanium mesh-style Milanese bracelet with adjustable buckle. Apparently a standard MI5-issue timepiece, the watch is also worn by the film’s other 007, Nomi.
The dark brown dial is paired beautifully with a set of light brown markings that give the watch an aged, vintage aesthetic. This is further enhanced by the domed sapphire crystal. Craig, an Omega brand ambassador, was involved with the design of this piece, suggesting it should be light weight and with vintage touches to make it stand out from the rest of the Seamaster collection.
Q-branch added an EMP (electromagnetic pulse) function to Bond’s watch, designed to disable nearby electronic circuits by lifting, then turning or pressing, the helium escape valve.
This Omega is still available now and offered on either a titanium mesh bracelet (US$11,300 / £9500) or a NATO strap (US$10,000 / £8400).
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Alistair Charlton
